I made it to Santiago in time for the USA v Ghana World Cup game!
I am absolutely exhausted. But i made it from Zamora to here in 12 days. That was my goal to be able to see the US play and not be caught somewhere without a tv.
Monday, June 16, 2014
Friday, June 13, 2014
June 13: Ourense
I made it to Ourense. Basically it was mountains the entire way from Puebla de Sanabria. The ascents were 2000-2500 ft is my guestament. I had to do one 'overdo it' walk. That was 14.5 hours from Puebla de Sanabria to A Gudina, about 56km. I stumbled into Gudina about 9pm absolutely exhausted. The challenge for me is doing the 56k and then weathering the aftermath. I am still trying to manage the second part. I managed to do 36km to Laza, 34km to some town thats name starts with an X (Xumquiera do Ambria?)and then 22km to Ourense. This is while enduring a heat wave here. I am 100km plus away from Santiago as the area here bakes. The flies are all hatching in the heat, especially here which is a traditionally moist climate like Oregon. The humidity index is at 90% which forces up the temp (heat index) from 90degrees to over 100degrees plus.
I have some decent photos which I will post once in Santiago.
Monday, June 9, 2014
June 9: update
Still no luck uploading photos. Once I get to Ourense in a week, I can find a locotario where I can rent a computer. I will probably need to start another blog page.
Meanwhile, I have been walking for the last five days since Zamora. I arrived in Puebla de Sanabria today. The Via de la Plata splits 40km north of Zamora. I could either continue north to Astorga where the Camino Frances is, then take the Camino Frances to Santiago; or, I could take the Via de Sanabria which is really the traditional way to go. The Via de Sanabria goes east northeast, and comes close to the top of Portugal. It has been an absolutely gorgeous route to walk. Tge terrain is more mountainous as I approach the province of Galicia. Galicia is very mountainous, a lot like the Oregon Cascades.
I had hope to reach Santiago by June 16, the night USA plays Ghana in soccer. But I don't think I will make it. Hopefully I can find a bar that has the game.
Saturday, June 7, 2014
Jun 7: update
I am having problems uploading photos lately. I don't know what the issue is.
I spent three days in Zamora resting my feet because of blisters. I have been on the road the last three days trying to manage the blister issue. I bought two pairs of shoes in Zamora to replace the running shoes I had. The main challenge in getting the shoes was finding a size large enough to fit me. Evidently Spaniards don't usually wear size 13 US.
So one pair I had to order through the mail within Spain. That was a pair of Keens Newport H2 sandal that I could only find in size 12. The other pair is a size 13 Addidas hiking boot. Unfortunately it seems to run small. It is an experiment to see which is the better shoe. It is challenging to change to new shoes in the middle of the hiking 20miles a day too. Procuring the shoes took up most of my time in Zamora. Seriously, it is not easy to do like in the USA.
I also had a bedbug run-in a week ago. I called the bar that ran the albergue that they might want to check out their beds. Plus I called the albergue the stage before Morille so that they could give a heads up to the pilgrims. Oh...life on the road for the pilgrim!
Monday, June 2, 2014
June 1: update
On May 31, I walked from Salamanca to El Cubo. This is 33km. On June 1, I walked another 33km to Zamora.
I stopped in Zamora because I am once again having blister problems. This time it is on the other foot. My plan is to stay a few days in Zamora to let the blisters heal. Plus I will buy new shoes.
Friday, May 30, 2014
May 30: Taste of America!
Things like Campbell Tomato soup are here. I asked if they spoke English. They said no. I said you need to have me work here. You can't advertise like this without someone inside speaking American!
May 30: Spanish Culture
This is a normal scene outside a Spanish business. This dry cleaning business has hours from 10am to 1:45pm and from 5:00pm to 8:15pm. The employee working here didn't bother to show up until 10:20am. The young lady looked to be clothes shopping with her boutique bag she was carrying. The three of us were waiting outside. Plus a delivery truck person ended up getting the woman in black to sign for a package for the cleaning business.
Last week I waited outside a business that rents computer time, for an hour past opening time with three other people. This is after I had asked the same person earlier what time his business opened in the afternoon. He pointed to the hours posted on the door!
I find this "cultural" nuance ironic in a country where 50% of working age people don't work.
Thursday, May 29, 2014
Wednesday, May 28, 2014
May 28: moisture
Is a killer to feet. With all the rain I have seen in the last several weeks, it has played havoc on my feet for blisters. I am hoping for sunshine!
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
May 27: at mass surrounded by wooden pilgrims
The priest said some radical things like 'we are all equal before God' and that 'all of our lives is a pilgrimage, looking for something. That includes the Church, on its own pilgrimage of self discovery."
After the staff made a homemade dinner put together from everyones contribution. It is the best meal yet in Spain!
I must say having the entire experience today at the albergue at the albergue makes the Camino well worth it.
Monday, May 26, 2014
May 26: door to "new" Cathedral
"New" Cathedral was built in 1600s as opposed to the "old" Cathedral (conjoined to the "new") which was built in 1200s. That is, right after the Moors were beat back in the area. Evidently Salamanca was located in the middle of a major battle ground and left the city a ghost town.
May 26: The House of Shells (the symbol of Santiago de Compestelo)
I did a little sightseeing today in Salamanca. My foot blister has seemed to heal up pretty well. So I will get back on the road tomorrow. An hour bus ride back to where I left off. If I had to take a few days off, I am glad I did it in Salamanca and not Timbuktu. I had the good fortune of eating Mexican food! Mexican food is such an oddity here. I did find a couple Chinese places. Except for a few Italian joints, it is pretty much Spanish food here in Salamanca.
I had fun Saturday night watching Real Madrid play Athletic Madrid for the Euro Championship. Salamanca was nuts all day and night long. People singing, drunk. I wore my Barcelona jersey which was repeatedly met with disdain. Given the negative energy it seems to generate in people, I am replacing the shirt for a plain green shirt.
Friday, May 23, 2014
May 23: Salamanca
This city is a major city in Castille-Leon. It is an hour or so from Madrid. During the Spanish Civil War, Franco named this place the capital for awhile. It is a small wonder that when I wear my Barcelona football shirt, I get a rather cool reception from the people along the Camino. Barcelona represents the 'other side.'
May 23: Via de Plata headstone
The Camino Via de Plata has a number of types of waymarkings. This is one. Another is for the Roman Road which the Via de Plata is suppose to follow. A third is the Official waymarkings of the Camino. The fourth are the inauspicious Yellow Arrow (or Fleches). These are the most reliable. I have had bad experiences with the others.
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